The End

It's been exactly one month and a day since my last day in Jerusalem. I've turned in my shekels for dollars, falafel for In-n-out burger and views of the Old City for views of the Pacific Ocean. California is and always will be my home, but I'm learning that each time I travel, I seem to lose a piece of my heart to that location.

Marguerite and Ricardo from Spain still fill my thoughts weekly and I expect Raya, Muna and Ranin to creep in at least daily for the coming year.

As sad as it is to leave, I am so incredibly happy knowing that 80 more students are there right now experiencing what you've been reading these last months with all 6 senses. There are definitely 6. You can taste the food, see the sights, feel the wind, hear the music, smell the flowers and most impacting, love the people. As much as I can express in writing, there is no replacement for the real thing.

For anyone who has experienced the Old City for themselves, I hope this video brings you back.


It's been amazing. Thanks for letting me share.

Also, I have 2 more albums with lots of pictures here.

Grandma, you'll enjoy this one best.

Proof of a Good Day:

Tired feet resting in a homebound taxi.

There are days when spontaneity, intuition and a little bit of adventure combine to create beautiful memories and lasting friendships. Today was one of those days and Ranin is one of those friendships. I only met Ranin a few weeks ago in Ein Kerem, but the circumstances of our meeting both then and today has provided each of us the magnificent blessing to gain from each other's wisdom, personality and warmth.

Not knowing how the day was going to play out, six of us headed for the train station and went west to Tel Aviv. We spent the day swimming in the Med., walking up and down Allenby Street and most meaningful to me, connecting with Ranin.

Having grown up attending school as the only Arab among Israeli Jews, she experienced persecution much in the same way blacks experienced racism in the United States half a decade ago. With no bitter feelings however, she serves as an amazing example to me of strength, beauty and youthful energy.

It amazes me the connection people can share sometimes after only a few minutes of meeting them. THIS feeling. This is the feeling of humanity, of friendship and the spirit of people to uplift one another.

Remembering the Holocaust

About 2 months ago we took a trip to Yad Vashem which is Israel's memorial museum to the Holocaust. I'm sure I don't have to tell most readers of this what a sad story the Holocaust is.

Our first week here, we went on a geography field trip, basically getting various views of Israel from all sides of Jerusalem. That was my first introduction to the walls built in the last 10 years by the Israel government to separate the Palestinian territories from the rest of Israel. A few weeks ago, we toured the walls up close. After talking with my classmates after, I realized I wasn't the only student who had striking images of ghetto walls from the Holocaust pop into my mind when I saw these walls up close.

I've been very hesitant to share this idea, but recently found that my observation is also shared with a Princeton scholar/UN Human Rights Council member named Richard Falk who is making headlines.

This is a very short but interesting situation.

**By the way it was purely coincidence how closely these pictures resemble each other. The first one was the first image under googled "holocuast ghetto walls."

The Middle East is Not a Desert

From the moment I arrived in Tel Aviv 3 months ago my preexisting conceptions of a dry and brown desert as the geography of my existence here have been proven wrong time and time again. Nothing negated these stereotypical images more than the 10 days I spent in Galilee.

I have been blessed to be here during the best climate which has definitely helped put a little more "spring" in my step. Quite literally, spring has sprung as I seem to be discovering new species of flora everyday.

The natural beauty of Galilee provided a perfect backdrop for prayer and meditation, and of course a lot of fun and learning.

For a deeper look into Galilee, here are some pictures!

Easter Week

Despite having two final exams on Good Friday, my easter week in Jerusalem is ending quite nicely. I just got back from Midnight Mass at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and I have just under three hours before we depart for a sunrise service at the Garden Tomb. Tuesday brought an amazing day in Bethlehem where we saw the birthplace of Jesus Christ and spent an evening at Shepherd's field. The following day I visited the supposed birthplace of John the Baptist in Ein Kerem, which is a quainter and pleasant part of Jerusalem.

I can definitely say this is a week I'll never forget. Then again, that same statement could be said for every week I've been here.

Tomorrow we leave for Galilee for 10 days so future posts at this time are pending the strength of the internet connection there/price for usage.

HAPPY EASTER!

Palm Sunday in Jerusalem

So apparently the 8 foot palm frond I bought for 10 shekels from a Palestinian boy on my way to the Mt. of Olives merited me and my friend Mark worthy of an EPA press photo covering Palm Sunday. Check out the original picture here. (It is from a news site called monstersandcritics.com) The caption provides a great explanation of Palm Sunday and the other photos in the album give a deeper glimpse into my crowded, sunny, and oh-so-memorable Palm Sunday experience in Jerusalem.

As our large mass of 80 American students walked over the the Mount of Olives, I had no idea what I was getting into. In a land where the most attention is given to conflicting interests of Muslims and Jews, it's easy to forget that Christians also have a large presence here in the Holy Land. Palm Sunday reminded me of that. While it seems that more Jews and Muslims than Christians live here in Jerusalem, I would guess that the most represented religious group of tourists here are Christians.

In addition, the most visited week by Christians to Jerusalem is the week leading up to Easter (aka right now). As I spent four hours walking a path that three days earlier had taken me about 30 minutes, I enjoyed conversation with people from all over the world. Though it was hot and crowded, the overall feeling was a relaxed one of rejoicing. While walking, I passed nuns singing hymns, uniformed Palestinian boy scouts waving flags and several different national groups joining together playing guitars and bongo drums.

The journey which begins at a church on top of the Mount of Olives and passes through the garden of Gethsemane ends at another church just inside the Old City. Here, the celebratory atmosphere continues in the courtyard with more music and mingling. Sharing the same Palm Sunday experience with such an eclectic mix of travelers confirmed once again my appreciation for diversity and also my gratitude for Jesus Christ's example. His golden rule, a simple but under-practiced truth, is reason for a lot of the good we see in the world.

This picture was taken after the procession in the courtyard of St. Anne's church, in front of the pools of Bethesda.

The Generation Gap...filled

The night I left my house in California to eventually come here, I hurriedly scanned some priceless pictures of my dad that illustrate some of his experiences (which are much more expansive than mine) in the Middle East. I'm not sure the story behind his gladiator shot. Mine was taken in Jordan after a Chariot show at the ancient Roman city of Jerash. The second shot commemorates his baptism at the Jordan River. Years later, I was there too. SWEET, huh?

I like it "Eilat!"

Last week while we were stuck inside the Center unable to go out into Jerusalem, we took a day trip down to the beaches of Eilat, the southernmost point of Israel. It is close to both the Egypt and Jordan borders, right on the Red Sea.

Eilat is known for really good scuba diving and snorkeling. While my limited snorkeling experiences in Hawaii have been wonderful, I must say that this exceeded all previous snorkel excursions. By a lot. Usually I look for beautiful fish which were plentiful in Eilat, but I have never before seen such beautiful coral reefs! They are an incredible animal (yes, coral is an animal. It eats plankton.) Anyway, I was so amazed and fascinated by the many different schools of fish all hanging out at the reef. A somewhat obscure but accurate comparison would be a popular high school hangout. No one is in a hurry to get anywhere, everyone is just peacefully enjoying good food, good friends, and good people, or fish, watching.

By the way, fish have no fear. On my first trip out, I became entranced by a large school of fish which swam directly in front of me. After admiring them for a few seconds and with my goggles blocking my peripheral vision, I used my arms to propel me in a different direction. As I continued to rotate more and more, I finally made a complete 360 and realized there was no opening among the fish. This giant school of fish had turned into a fish circle, which was eerily reminiscent of shark hunting behavior. I freaked out for about a second until I realized how cool it was. I floated idle for a short while, bewildered and amazed by the insignificance I was feeling from a group of finger-sized fish. I've never felt that way before and may never again.

Petra-fied!

When I was in 6th grade, Mrs. Hall, my favorite Social Studies teacher, taught me about Petra. To me, it was the coolest idea ever - an ancient city built out of rock. For twelve years now, I've marvelled at the idea of a city just being built right into the rock where it is founded. No need to haul any huge stones, just use tools to make buildings and homes out of what you already have. What a concept, huh?

Last week in Jordan, I actually realized my 6th grade dream of seeing Petra with my own eyes. Imagine hiking through a beautiful rock landscape in southern Utah and then deciding, "Hey, let's build a city here." That's basically what it felt like. The landscape alone would be enough to attract tourists to the area, then add valley after valley of major tombs, monasteries, stadiums, a treasury, altars and homes.

And by homes, I mean caves. Traveling out of the canyon on a horse, I made friends with my bedouin guide. He was 25 years old and was literally born and raised in a cave in Petra. He has since moved into government housing just outside of Petra but he said that some nights he still hikes back into Petra and spends the night in a cave because he just likes it.

I apologize for so many references to the Eagles lately, but this is a funny side story. When my horse guide asked me where I was from, I answered California and he replied, "Ahh, California's a lovely place!" Then his friend came up and independently asked the same question. He also replied, "Oh, a lovely place!" I noticed the similar answer and then laughed when they both started singing "Hotel California" by the Eagles. I joined in and enjoyed a memorable ride out of Petra, a great ending to a great day.

I found a cool and brief (5 photos) online photo gallery of Petra from National Geographic.

Back to Reality

After being somewhat on a high from my trip to Jordan, it didn’t take long for me to come back to reality. On Thursday night, the violence between Israel and Palestine, which since I’ve been here has only been present in Gaza, extended to Jerusalem.

After an Israeli military attack on Gaza last week killed 120 Palestinians, a Palestinian from East Jerusalem foolishly (and some Palestinians feel valiantly) responded by opening fire in a Jewish seminary, killing eight Israeli citizens.

The Jerusalem Center is located in East Jerusalem. Often when the violence gets bad in Gaza, we aren’t allowed into East Jerusalem or the Old City because many of the shop owners go on strike and the overall feeling of tension is just higher. This has happened a handful of times since we’ve been here, but even when we can’t go into East Jerusalem, we’ve always been able to go to West Jerusalem.

To hear that the violence happened in West Jerusalem shook us all a little more, and of course the sign “WEST JERUSALEM IS OFF LIMITS UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE” went up right next to the more familiar “EAST JERUSALEM AND THE OLD CITY ARE OFF LIMITS UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE” sign.

So, we’re locked in for the time being. It’s a good thing everyone stocked up on pirated (and legal by Jordanian law) DVDs in Jordan.

In case you’re interested in how the media shows bias, read this article about the shooting in Jerusalem and notice how the reporter chose not to mention the 120 dead Palestinians until the 27th (4th from the bottom) paragraph.

I found that Peaceful, Easy Feeling

in Jordan.  

The entire area of the Middle East has unfortunately been labeled by the media as a land of unsettled conflict.  I can feel the tension in Jerusalem; I even felt it in Egypt.  There are still 19 Arab countries left for me to visit, but using Israel and Egypt as a comparison, Jordan seems to stand out as a beacon of hope to its surrounding Mideastern counterparts.

Twilight is my favorite time of day.  Sunlight hits the earth, highlighting its natural features in the most beautiful way and people are out and relaxed, enjoying the beauty of the sunset after a good days’ work.  We first entered Jordan about an hour before twilight and I immediately felt the ease and happiness emanating from Jordanians walking out of their shops, going out of their way to wave at our American tour bus passing through. 

At one point we stopped the bus for about 10 minutes on the main road of a small village.  No one unloaded, but many students began exchanging smiles and “Keef Hallaks” with shop owners outside.  I smiled at one man and without thinking he brought me a falafel from his shop and handed it to me through the bus window.  His big smile showed that he didn’t expect anything in return.  This small gesture became so indicative of the overall hospitality and friendliness felt on for the rest of the trip (which included an unforgettable dinner with a good friend of my grandmother's, Leila Sharaf).

Jordanians are proud of their country and eager to share their culture.  Many of the military members we saw at tourist sites were more than friendly and eager to pose in a picture for us.  This was quite a contrast compared to some of the guards I've meet in other countries (I'm thinking England).  

If I were to judge a country based on my impressions of its people, Jordan is definitely towards the top of my list.  Its wonderful people combined with incredible natural wonders (Petra), great food, and modern political significance makes Jordan a country everyone should enjoy in their lifetime.    

The Gaza Situation - Not Easy

DISCLAIMER: I am very happy with an overwhelming feeling of gratitude for everything I have in my life right now, BUT...

Since I've been here, I haven't exactly woken up with a special hop in my step every morning. I love Jerusalem and appreciate every amazing thing here, but it seems like that peaceful easy feeling (thanks, Eagles) hasn't been there the way I've been so lucky to feel as a free citizen of the United States. After trying to figure out possible explanations for this feeling, I think I've figured out a different answer. The reality of the conflict I am living in the midst of is difficult. I have become so interested in studying the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, but too much of it just makes me sad.

Please look at this article.
And this one.
And this one.

Back to the disclaimer at the beginning, all of this has made me even more grateful for everything I have been given, but as the LDS hymn says: Because I have been given much, I too must give. Last week, I was given lunch by a group of gardeners in Orson Hyde Park. Without question, they fed six hungry students Mansaf, an authentic Jordanian dish, which we ate with our hands. They not only welcomed our presence but invited us back every Thursday for their weekly gatherings. The food was the best meal I've had here. I don't know how much they've been given, but they definitely gave me a lot. Not only food, but friendship.

Now the big question remains, What can I give?

Hummus - Rita vs. Lina

While I'm not sure I'll ever find hummus good enough to rival my grandmother Rita's simple but perfect recipe, I did find a place that comes very close. Hummus Lina is supposedly some of the best hummus in the world, a local favorite. I experienced it today and it was splendid.

The white stuff in the picture is called Labaneh. You know food is good when you are still imagining the taste in your mouth an hour later. It is a type of really thick yogurt made from goat cheese, tasting a lot like cream cheese but fluffier and healthier.

The following is a description of my friend, Scott Nibley's first experience with Hummus Lina a couple weeks ago:

"It was the greatest delicacy, perhaps, of my life. The hummus was so subtly flavored, so delicate--a most simple decadence, whose combination of texture and taste make resplendence personified." (full disclosure)

After a morning spent touring the City of David and walking through Hezekiah's tunnel (more to come later), this was a great topper. Good food in my stomach=happiness.

Sing, sing, sing. I like to sing.

I've had the blessed opportunity since I've been here to attempt to emulate my mother's awesome musical talent. Robert Galbraith, an amazing musician and composer has been directing a choir here. Every week we get to learn a new piece, usually an original arrangement of his or something really amazing like Ave Verum Corpus by Mozart. Last week we gave a concert here at the Jerusalem Center. This was the opening piece, a lullaby from Hansel and Gretel. We performed the first song behind the audience, then moved down to the stage for the rest of the concert.

In April we will be giving a concert at the St. Georges Cathedral here in Jerusalem. This video also shows off the Jerusalem Center Auditorium. Sunday Night Concerts are given here every week and are attended by both locals and tourists.

Snow Day!

This morning I woke up to this.

Apparently the city shuts down when it snows in Jerusalem. Two of our classes were canceled because no one wants to drive on the slick roads. If the snow here were as pretty as Utah snow, maybe we could build a snowman, but it's pretty much slush. Looks like recess will be inside today!

Giraffes, Storks and Hope

When I was about sixteen years old arriving at the San Diego Zoo with my parents, we realized that until that moment, I had never been to the zoo! (Tragic, I know.) This lack of zoo experiences as a kid perhaps explains my eager childlike impulses when I go to the zoo today. I get really excited. As you can see, I made a couple friends at the Israel Zoo. I thoroughly enjoyed the giraffes and storks and the fish without eyes and squirrel monkeys were especially fascinating and entertaining. But the best part of the day was meeting a fellow homosapien on the playground.

While I was taking a picture of a friend, this kid came up to me and motioned me to come over and play with him. We proceeded to take pictures together on every different mosaic animal. It was awesome.

Walking around Jerusalem everyday, it's easy to get annoyed with the security issues. 99% of the time, I feel safe, but there are definitely streets where I've trained my eyes not to make eye contact with anyone (especially men) for fear of sending a misunderstood message. Especially while traveling, this apprehensive behavior is out of character. Nature's instinct is to observe absolutely everything and take it all in.

Thankfully though, the saving aspect of this unfortunate situation has been the kids. Kids are always safe to look at. There is no threat involved and mostly kids are just as curious in looking at me as I am at them. Kids have no preconceived judgements about Americans. No locked up role for women. No longterm grudges. I'm so grateful for the kids here. In a big way, they are the small light of hope to a difficult situation--hope which is very much needed. Here's to my playground playmate, unafraid and eager to simply spend a couple minutes enjoying the company of a fellow human being.

Capturing Egypt

Thanks to the wonders of facebook and digital cameras I have pictures from Egypt!

Also, my roommate miraculously fixed my camera last night. It works now!

Today I saw a t-shirt with this on it

Tuesday night, I listened to a forum here at the Jerusalem Center given by Stewart Tuttle, the spokesman for the US Embassy in Tel Aviv. In a more casual and less informed group than he normally speaks to (that being the hounding media), he was able to speak quite candidly and openly about US involvements here in the Middle East, including Bush's latest visit. Quite enlightening.

His optimism towards Bush's latest visit reminded me of the high morale felt by many towards a peace solution right at the end of Bill Clinton's tenure, 8 years ago. Seems a bit like deja vu. Which made me wonder if it is even possible for a US President to give as much focus in their earlier years toward a solution as Clinton and Bush have/are giving in their last years. Would the American people allow this?

DISCLAIMER: The following paragraph is Catherine's opinion...

I do believe that George Bush, indeed the most powerful man in the world, is personally and spiritually committed to helping this problem. While the US cannot be the main player in the peace process, I do think they have extreme clout and respect in "advising" a solution. And I think that both Abbas and Olmert agree. Despite doubt from the Palestinian I spoke with today in a camera shop outside the Old City who deemed Bush's visit a "failure," I truly hope his efforts succeed.

Once in a Lifetime

I know, I know. Typical cheesy tourist shot. But what else are you supposed to do WHEN YOU'RE AT THE PYRAMIDS???

More than an educational or eye-opening experience, visiting the great pyramids of Giza seems to be more the culmination or completion of a goal than anything else. Despite the very atypical below-60 degree weather all week and my broken camera (this was one of the last pictures I took before it fell in the sand), Egypt was an exhilarating 'pinch yourself-these places really do exist' experience.

The pyramids up close are cool but my greatest realization came seeing them as part of the Cairo skyline. They are the major identifying landmark of Egypt today in the same way they were over 4,000 years ago. I wonder if Moses or even the later pharaohs like Ramses II were as excited or intrigued by the pyramids as I was when they first laid eyes on them.

Amazing is the hard work of the common people of ancient Egypt in building these structures. They put a lot into honoring and respecting their leaders after they died. Either they were somehow brainwashed to construct massive temples for no functional purpose of their own or they actually cared about their leaders and wanted to show gratitude by heaving insane amounts of 1.5-ton stones across the desert. Either way it is a wonder to think about.


(Hopefully modern day file sharing will aid me in obtaining more pictures that I was not able to take myself. Also, those are my roommates in the picture.)

Jellyfish and Egypt

As much as it may look like one, that's not a plastic bag. It's a jellyfish!

A group of us went to Tel Aviv a couple days ago and had a great time enjoying the slightly warmer temperatures than Jerusalem has to offer right now. As a California girl, I'm just simply happier with the sun in my eyes and sand between my toes.


















I'm off to EGYPT tomorrow for a week and can't believe I'm actually going. As I spoke with my Grandpa Orin today, who spent a lot of time in Egypt working for AMIDEAST, I told him,

"I know it's gonna be amazing but I really have no idea what to expect."

He warned me that he had diarrhea a lot while he was there. Woo hoo! I'm pretty sure he thinks it's a cool country too.

Best Moment of the Day

Please enjoy this picture as much as I do.

The other day I had just exited the Temple Mount and was walking with a couple other friends through a less crowded street in the Muslim quarter. I noticed we were walking past a couple schools when I heard some high pitched, innocent laughing and yelling.

"Hello!" I then heard directed toward my group of friends and I. "Hello! Hello!" These kids just kept repeating the same word, "Hello!" over and over in THE cutest voices.

I replied back "Hello! How are you?"

To which they replied with huge smiles, even more inviting laughter, and a couple more "Hello!"s just for good measure. They then allowed me to take their picture which completely made my day.

Funny how children can be the ones to make you feel the most welcome and appreciated sometimes.

Freedom on a Greyhound Bus

"I prayed almost everyday that Heavenly Father would end my life. For those who don't know, it's hard to live here (in Israel). It's hard to be a Palestinian. And it's gotten worse...this is my home city but I don't feel like it is because I can't even leave it. My city is surrounded by a wall and I can't leave."

-Sahar, Palestinian resident of Bethlehem (a city in the West Bank)

Sahar is a member of the Church of Jesus Christ here. Church meetings are held at the Jerusalem Center in Israel, only about 20 minutes from Bethlehem, but Sahar cannot attend. Save for four weeks during the holidays when she is given a temporary permit, she cannot attend because of a recently constructed wall separating Israel from the West Bank.

In June 2002, because of an idea proposed by Ariel Sharon, a "separation wall" began construction that separates the West Bank (technically a landlocked territory not officially recognized as part of any country but still 'occupied' by Israel) from the rest of Israel. The wall has been compared by some as a 'second Berlin Wall.'

According to the Israeli authorities the fence/wall is "a defensive measure, designed to block the passage of terrorists, weapons and explosives into the State of Israel...." But to the huge majority of Palestinians who (obviously as Americans finally learned) are not terrorists, the wall is nothing but an infringement on basic rights.

One of my Palestinian professors, also from Bethlehem, recently recalled a time when he was in the United States and rode the Greyhound bus all the way from Washington D.C. to Los Angeles, CA. Quite a distance, right?

"To you," he said, "this is like 'Oh my gosh. That is so far!' But to me...this was freedom."

(In this picture, you can see the wall pretty clearly. This view from atop a tower on the Mt. of Olives shows Jordan as the far horizon, with the West Bank behind the wall and Israel in the foreground.)

Here is a good source for more info on the wall. And if you're really interested Here is a link to a 9-page report put out by the Palestinian National Authority Ministry of Foreign Affairs about the wall.

I am here.

So I figured I should post a picture that proves I'm actually here to go along with all the thought-provoking "how-do-we-save-the-world" mumbo jumbo I've been trying to pretend I know how to write. So there you go. Standing in front of the latest structure to occupy the Temple Mount, the Mosque of the Dome of the Rock.

Uniting Arab & Jewish Youth - through MUSIC

I am not sure what Jerusalem was like 10 years ago, but today there is definitely a hostile feeling that separates the Jews and the Arabs. As I continue to learn more about the national conflict, I see more and more selfish views from each opposing side, making me wonder how it can ever be solved. A major theme felt by Palestinians and discussed in many Palestinian discourses is the overriding feeling of "victimization."

Monday night, I witnessed firsthand what may be one of the best steps forward in the peace process for Israel. I listened to a concert given by the Arab-Jewish Youth Orchestra. This ensemble of 21 youth was started by two highly regarded and very multicultural musicians, one Arab and one Jew. Each piece the orchestra performs is an original arrangement (most by renowned conductor Wisam Gibran) with the specific goal of combining Arab and Jewish styles of music.

The music played at the concert was different than any I have heard. It was also more beautiful than most music I have heard probably more for what it represents than the notes that were actually played. An "Arab-Israeli" style arrangement of Chopin's famous Piano Prelude (the song played by Allie in the infamous 'almost' scene of "The Notebook") definitely made its way into my top ten list of best live music heard. This article gives a great report of how the organization got started and the goals it hopes to achieve.

I have heard of a couple other organizations that work toward this same goal. One through the venue of basketball and one through surfing. I am sure there are others, or at least there should be. This quote from an anonymous reader of the Surfing for Peace blog sums it up pretty well:

"This surfing for peace is a great idea and worth looking into all around the world. Not only surfing, but other sports as well golf and bowling even anything to keep people from killing eachother."

Check out this youtube video for more clips of kids surfing in Tel Aviv.

The Western Wall & Garden Tomb (in less than 24 hours)

Friday night, I saw a huge wall that has been standing there for almost 3,000 years. 3,000.

Saturday afternoon I saw a tomb that has been there for at least 2,000 years.

The Western Wall (also known as the Wailing Wall) is the one remaining wall of Solomon's temple which was built in 966 BC. Today, many Jews make a pilgrimage to offer prayers at the wall, or as I saw on Friday night (with a LOT more people than are shown in the above picture), celebrate the coming of the Sabbath with passionate and robust singing and dancing.

To see something this ancient and influential can be quite a unique experience for most Americans whose everyday exposure to ancient architecture only extends to the 1700s if they're lucky.

Less than 24 hours after my visit to the Western Wall, I visited the Garden tomb, a site that is believed by many Christians to be the place where Jesus rose after his death. Many testimonies of Christ are founded and solidified at this location to Christians from all over the world.

Everyday I am stunned and humbled by the closeness in proximity to so many ancient sites here, all of which (and these two especially) have had an incredible influence on the course of history and the way people think.

What started as an interest in the modern day Palestinian-Israeli conflict has led me to much more ancient beginnings. To solve a problem, one needs to get to the root of it. The "Middle East Problem" is like a tree with many branches and I'm beginning to realize that its roots extend very, very deep.





(Interesting Fact: These pictures were not taken from my own camera. Upon entering the grounds of the Western Wall from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday, tourists are reminded not to use their cameras. Jews revere the Sabbath day so holy that to even cause a piece of electronic equipment to function is considered work. Because of the holiness of the second site, visitors are asked to not take pictures, though many still do.)

Here's one for you, Trump.

Large mansion atop Mt. Scopus, overlooks the Old City of Jerusalem with an unobstructed view of the Dome of the Rock, the Mt. of Olives and several other disputed and beloved religious sites.

This is the sunset I will be looking at every night for the next 3 and a half months when I stand on my balcony.

It's a bit ridiculous how nice my housing is here. In a city where real estate is probably more passionately contested and disputed than anywhere in the world, I am living in a 125,000 square-foot, 8-story building with arguably the best view of both the old and new Jerusalem. Do I feel lucky to be here? Yes. Do I feel like I'm cheating when it comes to having a pure cultural experience? Yes. Am I complaining? No.

Being constantly reminded of security issues helps me stay grateful for a safe haven to return to each day. In this picture, if you look very closely to the left of the sun, you can see a small blimp flying above the King David Hotel. This is the hotel chosen to house President Bush during his stay in Israel and the blimp is flown during times of political unrest. It has been has been up since we got here, which incidentally was the same day as George W.'s arrival.

Before I left, my dad replied to a concern of my mom's like this "Well I hope she experiences a dangerous situation." Don't worry, I haven't felt threatened here. Yet.

"Listen to their hearts."

I'm sitting in the Vienna airport right now, anxious to get to Tel Aviv. Just before I left the states, my grandmother (Rita - I have a feeling I might be referring to her a lot) gave me some very poignant advice. After emanating her express excitement for my arrival in Jerusalem (and giving me a handful of names of old friends she would love for me to contact), she rolled of several bits of information and advice. One stuck with me and is something especially important in travel to the Middle East, a place strung with contradicting stories and opinions. I hope to live by this my whole life, but especially while studying in the Holy Land.

"Listen to the people, Catherine. Listen to their hearts."